White Bear

White Bear’s case for inclusion is unusually clear: the number-six wontons with chilli oil. The small Roosevelt Avenue shop has other dishes, but this is the order that makes a focused first visit worthwhile. Delicate pork-filled wontons, chilli oil and the toppings provide enough interest for a Flushing food stop without a long menu discussion.

The setting is modest, with a small dining area and counter. Choose it when you want the food to be the reason for the detour, rather than a restaurant room in which to spend the afternoon. An order can be a light meal or a shared stop on a longer Flushing outing.

Chilli oil changes the character of the wontons, so think about the complete dish rather than assume that dumplings will be a mild option. Use the portion offered at the counter to decide whether to share or make the wontons your lunch.

White Bear works particularly well when you want one specialist stop before exploring more of Flushing. Shanghai You Garden offers a different experience nearby, with soup dumplings and a more substantial shared meal. Decide whether the day calls for a small plate of wontons or a longer restaurant lunch.